It's Saturday and we have the afternoon off which gives me the opportunity to answers some of your questions. This is obviously a pretty arduous task and requires me to be in the right frame of mind.
So, I am here on the upstairs balcony overlooking the main road out front. The traffic is light at this time of day (3pm) with the odd dilapidated car and a number of motorbikes passing by. Bicycles never seem to be ridden but are often to be seen loaded up with goods and possessions and being pushed down the road. It appears that in Angola bicycle = wheelbarrow. The motorbikes and scooters are usually ridden sans helmet. The cars are usually dilapidated and barely moving interspersed with the latest 4x4. Pedestrians are few and far between and are often women walking alone with a baby strapped to their backs. Often they are also carrying a large bowl or basket on their heads. So, the scene is pretty peaceful, I have my laptop on my lap and my iPod gently playing “My Favourites” playlist. A chilled beer is on the floor beside my chair and I think I am ready to begin giving answers.
But, forgive me, I have forgotten to tell you about the flora and fauna. The rainy season is just over and so the scene is green and lush. There are thick green leaved trees all around. In fact, from my seat here on the balcony I could reach forward and pick a lemon from the tree in our front garden that is providing me with shade as I write this. The central reservation of the road in front is full of thick green grass. However, everything is beginning to dry out now and the first effect is the dust. This is not the biblical dust of Kabul, but is getting thicker and more abundant. The soil is red and everything is beginning to take on a red hue, particularly my legs at the moment. Is that the dust or the sun?
Animals are few and far between. There is an amazing lack of wildlife (as I have said before). There are a few dogs roaming, but these too seem to have the Angolan relaxed attitude to life and have no interest in barking, chasing or generally getting involved at all.
So, I come to my first query. The Charity Shop Fairy (shouldn't that be ex-CSF) wants some information for her Lonely Planet good veggie guide. Well, the truth is that Angola does not rate high on the scale. Tomorrow me and one of my companions are going to the market to check out the fresh fruit and veg. We are hoping to cook an extravagant and delicious Veg curry tomorrow for the team. (Sunday is the maids day off). So, I will report back on that. However, Angola suffers from that war cooking mentality that was prevalent in Afghanistan. A very repetitive and boring diet. I am not sure what the locals cook here, but the maids cook for us generally, chicken, stew and burgers. Having been told I am veggie they now boil some potatoes, carrots and cabbage every day. The variation comes from eating this with either rice or bread!!! We went to a chicken restaurant recently and they did cook me an omelette, but a quorn bolognese or tofu chow mein is not going to happen.
Now the innkeeper (would that be Mr Barleyman Butterbar of the Prancing Pony) wants some background on what the hell am I doing here. I am here in Huambo for 3 weeks, finishing with 2 days in Luanda before flying back to the UK. I am Acting, Temporary, Deputy, Assistant Finance Officer for an UK NGO that is the worlds largest HMA organisation. But, what is HMA, I hear you ask. Humanitarian Mine Action also known as demining. We are here ridding this country of landmines, the Remnants of War and Weapons and Ammunition Destruction. Clearing land to allow the local people to return to their homes, to plough their fields again and to be able to live their lives in safety, free from the threat of being blown up or killed.
As for a beer in France? My dear Barleyman, beer is never going to tempt me to France, however a convivial time spent with you and Mrs. Butterbar and a bottle of fine French wine sounds very appealing.
The experience here is totally different to Afghanistan or Sri Lanka. In Sri Lanka the war was still going on and although there was no direct threat there was the underlying strain of a country at war with roadblocks, curfews and the fear of incoming shelling. Whilst Afghanistan had the ever present threat of direct attack which consequently meant all travel took place in armoured vehicles and armed guards were ever present. Here the people are cheerful and relaxed. Maybe a little too relaxed when it comes to work!!
Incredibly there seems to be no hangover from a brutal war that only finished 8 years ago. Most people simply brush it off and look forward, happy in the security and safety they now enjoy (although very poor) There is no overt ethnic tension and all seems to be friendly. Walking round the town in the evening poses no threat at all and is probably safer than on your average British street.
So that sums up the situation, I think.
There is a bit of a breeze getting up which has taken the edge off the heat and is very pleasant. I shall sit and read for a while then maybe do some exercise before I settle down this evening with a couple of cans and watch the England – USA game. My prediction is 3-0 to England, Darren Bent getting a well deserved hat-trick.
As for your comment Mangles. What can I say. I am obviously putting a rose tinted gloss on this for you, the audience. ITS HELL.
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